Fashion's Obsession with the Occult
- Darren De Hahn

- Dec 8, 2019
- 4 min read
Updated: Jan 20, 2020
Clothing in shades of black and white accompanied by a large pointy hat is probably what comes to mind when you envision the appearance of your typical storybook witch.
Times have changed, fashion has evolved and your outdated idea of a once despised character has transformed to occupy a well deserved place in our society.
There is of course no defining way in which a witch should dress although one cannot deny the existence of particular associations. The origin of the primary portrayal can be dated back to the Salem Witch Trials where the community imagined the devil to be a tall dark figure with a high-crowned hat. Fast forward a couple of years and we have films such as "The Craft" and American Horror Story's "Coven" to thank for a more current interpretation which embodies an alluring defiant nature translated into a more modern setting.
Whether they're clutching a spell book or Prada purses, women have found themselves enchanted well men cannot help but fall victim to their seduction.
It's really no surprise that they have crept their way into our hearts and our wardrobes.
Hedi Slimane channeled seductive supreme being with his Spring 2013 runway show for Saint Laurent. Tailored suiting contrasts flowing dresses while layers of sheer fabric are offset by prominent leather details. This acts as not only a representation but celebration of both masculine and feminine energies while black wide brim hats are a subtle ode to his inspiration behind the collection.
Contrary to popular belief, not everything associated with this wondrous world has to be stereotypically dark and dramatic. Witches are often at one with their surroundings, harnessing energy through the embrace of nature's elements and channeling of earth's various entities.
The sun, moon and stars are prominent figures in not only witchcraft but many cultural traditions dating back thousands of years. Midsummer festivals are not uncommon in today's age either and act as a great opportunity to celebrate what is considered to be the "father" energy. The many phases of the moon or "mother" energy plays an important role in rituals and casting spells. Each phase aligns with strengthening particular personal desires whether that be growth during the rising phase, letting go of negativity during the waning phase or allowing nature to take control in your search for clarity during a full moon.

The pentagram, a star with five joined points, is a symbol of Wiccan faith representing the earth's elements with mind ascending above matter.
Earlier cultures had discovered that the pattern of stars in the sky changed over the course of a year which provided a longer count as opposed to the moon's month long cycle and the sun's cycle which marked the beginning and end of each day. This assisted with determining the appropriate times for planting, harvesting and carrying out particular tasks.
Furthermore stars would be studied and constellations interpreted in an attempt to explore and dissect the many mysteries of the universe. Maria Grazia Chiuri traded black capes for enchanting skirts with fantastical detailing when conceptualizing her Spring 2017 collection for Christian Dior.
Alexander McQueen tackled the subject with a slightly more personal approach.
In 1692 over 200 people were accused of witchcraft during the infamous Salem Witch Trials. Witchcraft had been largely misunderstood throughout the 20th century due to the false association with theistic satanism. As a result, many individuals were either hanged or imprisoned after they were presumed to be guilty of their accusations. Among those who had lost their lives during this dark period in history was Elizabeth How, a distant relative to the late Alexander McQueen. McQueen drew inspiration from the events which had taken place not only in Salem but around the world and directed any emotion evoked during the learning of his family's history into his Fall 2007 runway show.
An inverted pyramid displaying a film directed by McQueen with visuals of distressed animals, naked women and burning skulls accompanied the large blood red pentagram on the floor outlining the formation in which the models would walk. These focal points set the scene for what would soon be considered one of his most thought provoking collections.

A model dressed in all white portrays purity and innocence. Despite the accusations, many of those who were killed during the trials were not guilty of any crimes but instead died as a result of one of the greatest instances of mass hysteria to occur during the 17th century.
The show was filled with an abundance of metaphors which accompanied varying forms of sacred symbols such as the star and crescent moon appearing as swarovski crystal head pieces. Strands of silver beading cascading down the front of a flowing dress acts as an armour which emphasizes the idea that the female body is something which needs to be protected. A bodice extending not only downwards but upward to conceal the mouth and nose represents a restriction when it came to expressing one's personal or religious beliefs. This accompanies the feeling of internal confinement experienced when suppressing these beliefs in order to conform with the rules of an inherently oppressive regime.
An all black, body concealing dress engulfed by sparkling flames captures your breath as you are confronted with the cruel yet widely popularized method used to rid communities of wrongly convicted individuals. The final looks were purposefully revealing to emphasize vulnerability with the last model painted head to toe in gold. These were not evil human beings, they were precious bodies deserving of life. This collection much like many other collections by Alexander Mcqueen had no intention of profiting off any sort of trend but instead acted as the telling of a deeply personal story.
While many continue to recycle the same predictable stereotypes, branching out and researching core concepts is of great importance if you wish to personify what it means to be a witch in the modern day. Explore meaningful symbolism and clothe yourself in what makes you feel empowered and comfortable in your own skin.































































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